Over the years I’ve heard different stories about a certain field of grapevines in Cutchogue. Some of the stories are beguiling: that the vines were planted by mistake and were slated to be destroyed and replaced, but somehow evaded the trash bin of agriculture for a white grape version of a red carpet comeback. Some are strange: that the vines, sphinx-like and inscrutable, were reluctant to give up the secrets of their lineage.

Most wines we drink are blends of some sort. Even a single varietal wine may contain up to 25 percent of other grapes. Winemakers do this to enhance color and aroma, to adjust such things as acidity, alcohol, oakiness, and tannins. But an even bigger challenge to a winemaker is to create an original blend, a nonvarietal wine based primarily on flavor and taste.

In case you haven't noticed there are still some affordable French wines. And I don't mean affordable for just hedge fund managers. I'm talking about good quality, everyday wines you can buy for less than $15.