Channeling Chile in a North Fork hamlet: Can a young South American winemaker deliver on the potential of making exceptional wines at fair prices?
Long Island: Laurel Lake Tasting
Long Island winemakers are a varied lot. The ones I have met have been educated and trained in wine cultures in different parts of the world—and the influences show. A few are homegrown, in the sense that much of their knowledge came from local, on the job training. Others, predictably, prepared for their careers in California, France, Germany, or other wine producing regions. Now we can add Chile. Since last spring, Claudio Zamorano has been the Chief Operating Officer and winemaker at Laurel Lake Vineyards, just outside the small hamlet of Laurel, on the North Fork.
Although we must wait until next spring to sample specific wines made under Mr. Zamorano’s direction, a glance at the assortment of wines made at Laurel Lake and the profile of wines from Chile bears some superficial resemblance.
For the most part, Chilean wines are inexpensive, flavorful, ripe and fruity, best when young, suitable for everyday drinking; but Chile also produces smaller quantities of high quality, serious reds. Laurel Lake, whether by coincidence or intention, has a line of tasty, reasonably priced wines, with a couple of ambitious red wines at the top end. The difference would seem to be in size. Chilean wineries, at least the ones that export, are huge operations. Mr. Zamorano had worked in Chile for Veramonte, a large producer whose wines are widely available in this country.
Laurel Lake has only 14 acres planted, with 10 more in reserve. They produce about 15 different wines, including a sparkling moscato and an ice wine. I recently met with Mr. Zamorano to visit the cellars and to sample some of the wines now being offered for sale in the simple and country-like tasting room or online at www.llwines.com .
Their 2001 chardonnay, at $10 a bottle, is steel fermented, with a light, crisp taste and the aromas of soft, ripe banana and pineapple. It is an easy, no-nonsense, no pretense sort of wine, providing good flavor at a good price, quite enjoyable for sipping or with light foods. The 2001 Estate Bottled Reserve chardonnay, at $15 a bottle, is a more complex wine, aged in French oak. The taste is smooth and creamy, with a bit of spice, and a nice, soft finish. With an agreeable balance of fruit and acidity, it pairs well with fish, veal and quite a few other dishes.
I found the 1999 Reserve cabernet sauvignon, at $18 a bottle, to be pleasant—rich, soft and velvety, but not really extraordinary. Wine Spectator gave it an 85-point rating, so it obviously has some appeal to other palates. There was nothing really wrong with the wine. It just did not engage my senses, and I could not distinguish its qualities from other similarly priced cabs.
On the other hand, the 1999 syrah, also $18, was truly special. I found it to be silky and intense, with berry flavors and hints of pepper. Syrah, also known as shiraz in Australia, is not that common on the North Fork. Based on the quality of this wine, other growers might take notice. I’d pair it with foods that could benefit from the tang and zest of this lively wine. It could be an interesting if unconventional choice to accompany your Thanksgiving turkey.
At the top end, selling for $45 a bottle, their 1999 Meritage is a Bordeaux-style blend. It’s quite a wine: concentrated and aromatic, heady and intoxicating, with dense structure and lush overtones. If you want to splurge for the holidays or for some good hearty fall dinners, the Meritage is well worth considering. This is an outstanding wine for drinking now and in the next few years.
We shall also see in the next few years how Laurel Lake Vineyards develops. The promise is there; the youthful Mr. Zamorano has the challenging opportunity to develop the winery as a significant if small producer of exceptional wines at fair prices.
