Pink port: for the summer months, an easily accessible but still genuine version of port. One of the oldest, most traditional port producers is hoping it’s more than an innocent fad.

Portugal: Pink Port

Pink became the new white a couple of years ago with the resurgence of rosé. Now pink is trying to become the new red as well. This is the year it could become the spectacular red, white and blue star of summer drinks in the Hamptons.

Interestingly, Croft, the oldest and among the most traditional of the port houses—its roots go back to 1588—has come up with a stylish and chic warm weather concept: pink port. And they are introducing it here just in time for the Hamptons summer season. It is authentically port, made with the same grapes and according to the same extremely strict rules that govern the production of vintage and tawny and ruby ports. (It is technically a ruby port, but fermented the way a rosé wine would be, with a limited exposure to the grape skins.)

But forget the technical part and the pedigree. Focus on the flavor. Croft Pink is light and refreshing. It has enough sweetness to satisfy younger tastes but there is nothing confectionary about it. A kind of refined nectar quality will satisfy any generation, including those of us accustomed to more classical ports. The balanced fruit and acidity remind you that are drinking a real wine and not one of those concoctions like alcopops or wine coolers.

You might ask if Pink Port is an innocent fad. Are we going to look back one day and ask, “What were we doing?” My guess is that it is more than faddish. It is a serious attempt by a respected producer to give us an easily accessible but still genuine version of port for the summer months. It’s young, it’s fun, it’s trendy, and it’s perfect for casual drinking in the Hamptons. Serve it chilled or even on the rocks for an aperitif—and invite me over. It will be priced around $20 when it hits the local wine stores.