Off Season, On Target
In the kitchen at Della Femina, Michael Rozzi continues year after year as one of the most skillful and inventive chefs in the Hamptons, and never more so than when he prepares ambitious wine dinners. There must be something in the challenge of creating dishes matched to specific wines that motivates a chef, and Rozzi was at his best on Friday night with a terrific menu paired with some superb Paumanok Vineyards wines. Kareem Massoud, the winemaker, was in the dining room to explain and discuss.
After the amuse bouche, we went on to grape wood smoked striped bass, drinking Paumanok’s crisp and subtle 2009 sauvignon blanc. Their 2007 cabernet franc, one of Long Island’s friendliest grapes, accompanied a roasted duck breast with a cranberry-juniper compote.
Braised veal cheeks with Burgundy truffles was matched a 2005 Assemblage, the exceptional blend that is one of Paumanok’s signature wines. Dessert was a pear flambé with roasted orange caramel, paired with a lush 2009 last harvest riesling
Wine dinners at local restaurants are at the top of the list of our most wanted fall and winter indulgences.
James Beard House Burger Bash
One of our best summer parties is Chefs & Champagne, a gala evening of sipping and tasting at Wolffer Estate Vineyard in late July, that benefits the James Beard Foundation. Since they are kind enough to come to the Hamptons each year, I try to return the favor by showing up at the Beard House in New York City a few times during the off-season. (OK, I know winter is not an off-season for NYC, but it is here on eastern Long Island.)
Though I usually go to the Beard house for some grand dinner by a visiting chef, my next trip there will be for a burger or two. A Burger Bash will be held for the opening of an art exhibit called, logically enough, “The Burger Show.” The artist Ludvic (just one name) has done a series of paintings that “interpret the delicacy of the burger in a wide range of styles and sizes from beef burgers to salmon burgers.” Ludvic says, “I always paint what I love to eat.”
Sounds like good juicy fun to me, and a rare treat.
James Bear House, 167 West 12th St, New York, NY 10011
Paintings located in the Greenhouse Gallery
Burger Bash Date: Wednesday, March 2, 2011.
Affordable Wines by the Glass
At least part of the motivation at Della Femina for keeping wines by glass reasonably priced is to have affordable choices to go with their $35 prix fix dinners during the week. I agree with their thinking. No one going out for a casual weekday meal wants to drive up the bill with an expensive bottle—and inexpensive bottles are scarce in Hamptons restaurants.
Most of the glasses are $10, and the selection is so good and balanced that there is little need to choose either of two that cost more, except if you absolutely must order the priciest wine on a list.
Some of the $10 glasses that stood out in my sampling:
Peconic Bay Riesling, North Fork: mellow, smooth, juicy, and should match well with a number of dishes.
Falanghina, Terredora Dipaolo: an ancient and distinctive white grape from southern Italy with body and character.
Teatown Merlot, Napa: what a good California Merlot should be: tranquil, rich, with copious and balanced fruit.
Restaurant News: Discounts and Diversions
Remember when you could not get a seat in a restaurant this summer? Well the tables have turned. Or at least they are more available. It seems they want us back now, and are offering discounts, themes and entertainment. A few selections:
LT Burger in the Harbor (62 Main Street, Sag Harbor) www.facebook.com/ltburgerintheharbor, Laurent Tourondel’s family-friendly burger joint is offering a Sunday through Thursday burger, fries and either soda, milkshake or beer, along with a movie ticket for the Sag Harbor Cinema. $20 to $23 for the package.
HRP inside word: Nice to save a few bucks but it’s the small townish Main Street connection that makes this so appealing. Go for it.
Rowdy Hall (10 Main St. East Hampton) has Oktoberfest starting Saturday, September 18th, with a Fester Preis—prix fix to the rest of us—for $23 consisting of a traditional German dish with a beer. The first week’s dish is sauerbraten with braised red cabbage and turnip potato puree. Also, a $9 Oktoberfest tasting flight of brews is available throughout their celebration. In a first for Main Street, on September 23rd, Rowdy Hall will have picnic tables in the courtyard and communal dining tables in the dining room for a German beer hall atmosphere. Oompah music is planned.
HRP inside word: The food at Rowdy is always good, and I’m even willing to nibble sauerbraten provided there is no communal singing and the menu does not have umlauts.
Navy Beach (16 Navy Road, Montauk) www.navybeach.com. Bottles of rosé (or by the glass) as well as margaritas are half price on Sundays. Dinner Thursday through Monday, plus lunch Friday through Sunday. Lobster pot pie is back on the menu.
HRP inside word: I’ll go for the food and the view—both terrific—but the end-of-summer sale on rosé inventory is not much of an incentive.
Serafina (104 North Main Street, East Hampton) www.serafinarestaurant.com. Monday through Thursday night you get 20% off the entire menu (but not your booze or beverages). Happy hour Monday through Friday from 5 to7 with $5 glasses of house wine and 2 for 1 beers.
HRP inside word: The twenty off with no restrictions is a respectable discount and will cover a couple of extra glasses of wine.
Muse Restaurant & Aquatic Lounge (760 Montauk Highway, Water Mill) www.muserestauranthamptons.com, has live guitar and vocal performances Thursday from 7 to 10. Their “Build Your Own” three-course prix fixe is $29.95.
HRP inside word: If the entertainment is as enjoyable as the place, which has charm, and the food, which is usually excellent, it ought to be a good Thursday diversion.
