The James Beard Foundation: celebrating American food. But, please, why not more American wines?

Sip American

The James Beard Foundation Awards, which took place at Lincoln Center last week, cover many aspects of food in America and have two categories dedicated to wine. The industry-oriented names, “Outstanding Wine and Spirits Professional” and “Outstanding Wine Service,” sound a bit chilly, but the personalities and human qualities were more apparent onstage. I suppose that a third category, “Induction of Who’s Who in Food and Beverage in America” can cross over into wine.

This seems a fair balance given the food-oriented mission of the foundation, but as a wine writer I’d like to see them acknowledge that wine is food, and integrate it a bit more in the program. I would not, however, suggest simply adding award categories to a ceremony that already runs almost three hours and in any case ought to be tightened up. Even foodies must have attention spans, particularly when hors d’oeuvres and drinks are waiting.

The reception following the ceremony was held in the lobby and Grand Promenade of Avery Fisher Hall, and it was a very festive affair marking the twentieth anniversary of the foundation. Restaurants from both coasts and places in between had stations dishing out some remarkably good food, small bites created in America but with inspiration from all over the planet. It was extraordinarily and predictably delicious.

What was less predictable was what the culinary powers strolling around were drinking. I spotted very few American wines at this celebration of food in America. I did not get to every wine station, but an examination of the layout of the sponsor stations indicated few American wines, perhaps only two. Robert Mondavi and Cosentino Winery, both from California, had tables; Puerto Rico had a table presenting its rums.

The James Beard Foundation has found a nice balance in its awards, honoring classic, down-home American restaurants along with gourmet establishments, but they have not yet found the formula for recognizing American wines, at least in the tasting reception, along with other wines and spirits.

Two important New York wholesalers, Kobrand and Frederick Wildman, had European wines at their tables. A dozen or so other prominent stations featured wines from Spain, Italy, France and Chile, as well as spirits and liquors from Europe and Japan.

So what was this New York black tie crowd drinking? Mostly champagne as far as I could tell from my nonscientific observations. I sided with the majority and also drank the bubbly. It seemed exactly right for this glamorous occasion. The champagne was a dry, frosty, lively Perrier Jouet, supplied by Southern Wine and Spirits of New York, a distributor that was one of the evening’s major sponsors.

I realize that the James Beard Foundation itself does not plan the wines for the party. That is up to the sponsors, who are there to promote their products and are paying for the privilege. And if they see fit to advertise one of their products over another, it’s justified. They’ve bought the right to call the shots and fill the glasses.

And I have no beef with the quality. The champagne was superb and the couple of reds I sampled were excellent. But you’d think someone, someplace along the line, would wake up to the fact that American wines are underrepresented and ought to have an honored place at this event.

Now over its fiscal and administrative problems, the James Beard Foundation is back on track. The awards event, bigger than ever and in a prestigious Lincoln Center location, richly demonstrates this new confidence. The enthusiasm and loyalty of many of the most important people in the food world, including East Hampton resident Martha Stewart, who was a presenter, reinforced the influence of America’s foremost food organization. I don’t mean to be carping about wine nationalities when the James Beard Foundation should be congratulated. I just want to remind them that now that they have taken the giant steps, it is time to work on the details.