Bordeaux vintage of the century. 2005 is getting the antics, the action and the adjectives, not to mention the prices. Hoping some rich connoisseur will invite me for a taste.
France: Bordeaux 2005 Tastings
Since the harvest last fall, the hype has been radiating from Bordeaux throughout the wine drinking world. Now, with the April en primeur barrel tastings complete, the quality of the wine seems matched only by the enthusiasm of the industry and press. I’m probably the last wine writer in America to pay attention to all of this.
If there is going to be a Bordeaux vintage of the century, 2005 is it. But, hey, didn’t we just have a vintage of the century in 2000? The big names in the 2000 Bordeaux vintage already sell for at least twice the price of close but less celebrated vintages. Now, it is projected the costs for bottles of the 2005 vintage from the top estates will be 300 per cent more than their recent vintages, with first growths starting perhaps at $600 and going to more than $1,000 a bottle.
Most of us won’t get to taste these wines until they are released in 2007 and 2008, but we have the word of experts to guide us. Robert Parker, Jancis Robinson, Wine Spectator magazine, and just about every wine merchant and wine professional who was in Bordeaux for the tastings and pre-bottling purchase, have been consistent, describing them as varying from great to amazing to singular to extraordinary to just about every superlative in the English language.
What does this mean to the rest of us wine drinkers, excluding collectors and well heeled bon vivants who don’t mind spending $500 or more for a bottle of wine at home or $1,200 in a restaurant? It means most of us will be priced out of the market for the important first-growth estates, especially wines from Medoc like Chateau Margaux or Lafite-Rothschild. But as Eric Asimov recently pointed out in the New York Times, with the focus on 2005, other Bordeaux bottles from less illustrious names and less acclaimed vintages, but still very good quality, will be available at affordable prices.
I would add to his observation that while Bordeaux sets a standard for a certain type of Old World blend, it is certainly not the only standard by which to judge red wine. Italy, Spain, South America, California and Long Island—and of course smaller, less recognizable Bordeaux producers—all offer excellent quality at realistic prices.
If your pockets are deep enough, by all means buy some 2005 Bordeaux futures now. Michael Cinque, owner of Amagansett Wine, reports that he is already booking a significant amount of business in the 2005 futures. Mr. Cinque, who is in touch with wholesalers in Bordeaux and London, and with buyers at this end, is in a position to know. Expensive as they may be, by the time the cases are delivered, prices will no doubt have increased considerably. But remember, if you are going to drink it, not trade it, the wine itself may not be at peak perfection for many years to come.
And if you are not in the mood to give up your next vacation to buy a case of Chateau Haut-Brion 2005, don’t worry. You can still get excellent Bordeaux from the years surrounding the very expensive 2000 vintage. Good wines from the 98, 99, 01 and 02 vintages sell from around $30 a bottle. And the 03 and 04 vintages, which have not been released yet, may also offer some bargains.
While it is fun for the world to watch the antics and the action surrounding the 2005 tastings, the bottom line is that for the majority of us it is more entertainment than a Consumer Reports type of buying guide. But with the rich, varied world of wine, I won’t even think about it too much. I’d rather put the effort into the $15 wines I drink everyday, or the $80 wines I drink now and then, than the $500 wine I am more likely to be served at some connoisseur friend’s house than I am to buy for myself.
It goes without saying that I can’t wait for that invitation when the 2005 Bordeaux are here and ready to drink.
