A chilled glass of Domaines Ott on the terrace of Cinquante Cinq in St. Tropez is the ideal introduction to rosé. But it’s not the only one. Sampling Old and New World rosé at Pink Out.
Rosé, New World and Old
After commenting on rosé wine in last week’s column, I received an email from Dianne Benson, a resident of David’s Lane in East Hampton. She said “I always associate rosé with St. Tropez,” and wondered why I had not mentioned the South of France.
She is of course correct in her observation. Provence is known for rosé. Eighty per cent of the wine produced in the region is rosé, and that accounts for half of all the rosé made in France. My guess is that Ms. Benson probably drank chilled glasses of Domaines Ott on the café terraces and in the restaurants and clubs like the Cinquante Cinq in St. Tropez. For many Americans, myself included, Domaines Ott, in its distinctive, sinuously curved bottle, was our introduction to good rosé along with the lifestyle of the Cote d’Azur.
Domaines Ott is more than a cultural legend, however. It is also a model of what rosé wines should be. At a time not too long ago when rosé production was considered a slightly frivolous and diversionary activity for most winemakers outside of France, Domaines Ott took the business seriously. On three estates in Provence, Domaines Ott produces several versions of rosé as well as some red and white wines. Three of the rosé are available in the New York area, and while they cost upwards of $30 a bottle, they are superb wines, to be savored chilled (but not icy) on a summer day, preferably outdoors where the light will bring out the shimmering magic in the colors.
Although Domaines Ott did not participate in the “Pink Out!” rosé tasting that I recently attended, a number of other French producers were there. Olivier Duffort poured wines from Domaine Duffort’s two estates in Provence. From the Bandol region of Provence, Domaine de l’Hermitage (not to be confused with Hermitage wines of the Rhone valley) offered a sophisticated and delicious rosé. The lustrous soft pink color and summery and floral aroma might lead you to think this is a slight or flimsy wine, but the fruit is there and the freshness is there. It’s expressive and snappy, and I look forward to more than a brief taste.
The other Duffort rosé, Chateau la Moutete, is labeled “Vielles Vignes.” We usually do not associate rosé with old vines or other rare and important viticulture. But whatever is behind this, the result is impressive, a fairly full bodied, smooth and satisfying interpretation with an aroma of white peaches, demonstrating how nuanced rosé can be. It retails for about $10, but is not widely distributed. Domaine de Nizas, which is in the Langeudoc, just west of Provence, makes a rosé that seems bursting with life and vibrancy. It is well balanced, richly colored and totally refreshing, and sells for $17. The Nizas estate is directed by Bernard Portet, best known in this country as head of Clos du Val, the respected Napa winery.
But a grape does not have be grown in Provence nor does a winemaker have to be Mediterranean born, to bring us high quality rosé these days. Jon Priest, the winemaker at Etude (well, okay, the word is French), located in Napa, and famous for its cabernet sauvignon and pinot noir red wines also produces a delectable rosé from the pinot noir grape. The 2005 vintage I tried is crisp, vibrant and aromatic. With a bouquet of strawberries and watermelon, it is as captivating as any rosé with a European pedigree. It sells for about $20 per bottle.
Amador Foothill Winery, a small California producer, makes rosé from the Tuscan sangiovese grape. Their wine is subtle and well proportioned, with hints of berry and spice in the nose and an agile, engaging taste. It is quite reasonably priced at $10. If you’d like something a bit sweeter than the dry rosés I’ve mentioned, but less sweet than a white zinfandel, Baron Herzog, another California winery, makes a rosé from cabernet sauvignon that is soft and plummy, but still refreshing. It too sells for $10.
