Globetrotting cabernet franc: revered in the Loire region, with an illustrious history, this grape is finding a perfectly proper and fitting home on Long Island. Comme il faut.

Varietals: Let’s Be Franc

At a tasting panel discussion I recently attended Chris Miller, a wine expert who teaches a course for sommeliers, suggested that cabernet franc might become one of the stars of Long Island wines. To me, it was a surprising idea at the time. But as I looked into it I found that it was already the subject of an ongoing discussion among wine professionals.

It seems likely that as the Long Island wine industry develops there will be more specialization—the area will be considered important for one or two varietals rather than just an across the board producer. When that happens, it will be a sign of maturity and self-confidence, of finding the true temper and innate strengths of wine production here. Certainly a selection of grapes will continue to be grown, just as each vineyard manager will have opinions, but some vines will by structure and temperament find a more natural home.

Merlot is clearly a contender. The merlot grape is generally considered to be highly compatible with our soil and climate, relatively easy to grow, and the wineries have been producing some excellent examples of this wine. Many of them have committed large amounts of acreage to merlot, and have also been refining their cellar techniques to produce wines that reinforce and enhance the qualities of that grape.

Some of these same wineries also produce cabernet francs, and a few, most particularly Schneider Vineyards but also Broadfields Wine Cellars, specialize in cab francs. So far this wine has not received the attention or praise of the merlots, but some people are convinced it is superior.

Cabernet franc has been used for hundreds of years as a component of Bordeaux blends, to add complexity, acidity and bouquet. It is used in varying proportions by just about all the great chateaux. The blends usually rely more on cabernet sauvignon and merlot, although in St. Emilion (where it is called bouchet) the standard formula is 50 per cent or more cabernet franc.

In this country, Napa and Sonoma, as well as Long Island and other parts of New York State, produce noteworthy varietals from the cabernet franc grape. The Loire region of France produces some excellent cabernet franc wines (the grape is known there as breton) that I find are usually very good values. The areas of Chinon and Bourgueil, and to a lesser extent Saumur, are among the most noteworthy.

Cabernet franc often has a spicy quality, and may present aromas of raspberries, plums, violets, mint, fresh tobacco or bell pepper. Also, think of the scent of a freshly sharpened pencil, and look for this zesty sensation in the nose. When compared to cabernet sauvignon, you will find it less intense and a bit softer. It has less structure perhaps, but more than makes up for that in harmonious flavor and tender charm.

It is a wine to simply enjoy. Drink it young. And on the cool side, though not really chilled. The effect is somewhat leafy, herbal and vegetative, fruitier than a cabernet sauvignon, but lighter in color, tannins and alcohol. The silky qualities and high but balanced acid content of cabernet francs allow them to pair extremely well with differing menus in all seasons. That fact alone should be motivation for all of us to take a fresh look at this varietal.

It’s sometimes called “the other cabernet” which seems to demote it in importance. As I see it, there is plenty of room in our cellars for both these wines. Each has qualities that appeal at different times, in various circumstances.

Cabernet franc has a distinguished past. I read recently that a hundred years ago the wines of Chinon were considered as important as those of Margaux. Chinon, somewhat inland in the Loire Valley, has a climate influenced by the Atlantic, with similarities to Long Island. Coincidence? Or have the folks at Schneider Vineyards and their colleagues who are planting fields of cabernet franc focused in on the future?