You can find sublimity in a bottle of Romanee-Conti. But most pinot noir wines are far more elusive. Why this grape, problematical and difficult to grow, can produce pure silk.

Sublime, Elusive Pinot Noir

Certainly one of the great wine grapes of the world, pinot noir is also among the most problematical—all the way from the field to the bottle. Genetically unstable, vines may produce unpredictable offspring. Not only are the vines and fruit highly subject to disease and climate conditions, but also once harvested the grapes can be challenging and perplexing to ferment. The good news is that when it all works pinot noir results in an enchanting, harmonious wine, with a sumptuous aroma and rich but not heavy taste, sometimes described as liquid silk. The best pinot noirs are deeply profound wines that leave a lasting impression.

The gold standard for pinot noir is literally the Cote d’Or, the Slope of Gold, in the Bourgogne region of France, known to the world for such great wines as Romanee-Conti. Oregon is arguably the world’s second best region for pinot noir wines in the Burgundy style, with California, after years of bottling heady, poor quality pinot noir, now a significant contender. More than most grape varieties, pinot noir communicates a gout de terroir, the essence or character of the specific site and soil.

A good pinot noir should have a complex aroma. Black cherry, strawberry, raspberry or ripe tomato are often used in descriptions. Floral notes like violet or rose petal are sometimes present, as are herbal nuances—perhaps a hint of peppermint—and spice tones. Proper Burgundies are lighter in color and sweeter on the tongue than are classic Bordeaux. The wine should have a medium to full body but still be delicate, and neither acid nor tannins should be too prominent. The mouth feel is frequently soft and velvety. In my opinion, it is the finely tuned balance of elements rather than one outstanding factor that characterizes great pinot noir.

I recently had an opportunity to examine some pinot noirs with the Taste Buds, a group of Long Island wine professionals, in a seminar titled “Old World/New World.” The plan was to evaluate a number of wines and compare them based on region. The tasting was organized Anita LeGault, a freelance wine consultant based in Jamesport, and included, among others, Bernard Cannac, winemaker at Gallucio Family Wineries, David Lecomte, laboratory director at the Premium Wine Group, and Ros Baiz, a proprietor of The Old Field Vineyards.

Our panel looked at color, aroma, taste, aftertaste and the usual markers. As a columnist with a decidedly consumer point of view, I also looked carefully at value for the price and food matching characteristics. Unlike my experience with other varietals, I have rarely found good, cheap pinot noirs that I can unreservedly recommend.

The general favorite was a classic Bourgogne, a 1995 Nuits-St.-George from Les Pruliers. I found the wine well structured and intricate and quite pleasing. It would be suitable for a serious dinner, but I think I would do a bit more searching before spending$42 on this bottle. Another bottle that seemed to hold great potential was a 1985 Clos Vougeot, priced at $47. But the wine was somewhat oxidized—either too old or had not been stored well—so in effect it was eliminated from our judging.

Our panel also liked a 2000 Robert Sinskey Los Carneros, priced at $32. This California wine was smooth, soft and rounded with a nice finish. The price is fair, and while I’d recommend this wine, I’d also check out others in the price range. A 1997 Panther Creek wine from Oregon’s Williamette Valley, retailing at $35, was rather one dimensional, a decent wine but not outstanding. Panther Creek is a well-regarded winery, and I would certainly give them another chance with a different vintage or field location.

In this tasting, neither the samples from the new world nor the old world came through with the perfectly made and majestic wine that this grape is capable of producing. One of the lessons for me is that a really good low or medium priced pinot noir remains elusive. I have no doubt that the great names of Burgundy produce sublime wines, but prices are hundreds of dollars a bottle. Even then, I have come across thin, weak, undistinguished wines. Robert Parker, in his newsletters, recommends some less acclaimed appellations with less sticker shock—a sensible approach although you can spend quite a lot of money experimenting.

I remain hopeful that Oregon and California, or even Long Island, will produce flavorful and balanced pinot noirs that are food friendly and affordable. I know winemakers are trying, but when you are dealing with the world’s most troublesome grape, it’s a lot to ask.

I’m still investigating; so if any of our readers have come across pinot noirs that they recommend and I can afford, let me know.