When you’re in an ABC mood (Anything But Chardonnay) and desiring something soft, golden and floral, try viognier. A big-time Condrieu or a smaller-time Long Island version.
V-Day
The viognier grape is not the first choice of many winemakers. Not because of taste—it is capable of producing beautiful white wines—but because it is markedly hard to grow. The grape is subject to mildew, yields are small and often unpredictable, and the harvest window is limited. The peak time to gather the grapes is relatively short. Timing, as they say, is everything. Picked too early, the grapes will not produce a rich, aromatic wine, and picked too late, the wine will tend to be heavy. When all goes well, viognier (pronounced Vee-on-YAY) wine is a joy: clear and golden in color, with a fragrance of fresh summer fruits and flowers, and a soft but distinct taste.
Only the viognier grape is permitted to grow in the appellation of Condrieu, a small area in the northern Rhone valley. Condrieu is considered the gold standard for this varietal, along with nearby Château-Grillet. In the strict French controls on winemaking, Château-Grillet shares the honor with Romanee Conti of being the only two single estate appellations. But in recent years, ambitious winemakers in California, Australia and Long Island, among other places, have begun producing some quite respectable viogniers.
The wine interests me because it is still relatively rare and, except for the notable Condrieu and Chateau Grillet labels, usually not too expensive. It offers an inviting alternative when you are in an ABC (Anything But Chardonnay) mood. Several East End wineries produce viognier, among them, Martha Clara, Pindar, and Bedell Cellars. I’ve only briefly sampled the first two, but what I perceived as the common denominator among them all was a reserved and delicate quality. With additional tastings, I plan to report on all of them in more detail. For now I will comment on a Bedell Cellars 2002 viognier because I had a chance to enjoy a bottle with a meal and spend some time with it. The wine sells for $21 at the winery or online.
The color was pale and glinting with gold, and the fragrance a pleasant floral with suggestions of pineapple, apricot and pear. The taste was smooth, supple, perhaps a bit too muted, with restrained hints of oak. Overall the wine was well formed. It is hardly complex, but I would not expect complexity in such a young and fresh white wine.
Even if not memorable the balance of flavors, the degree of acidity, and the dry but sensuous quality made it a pleasure to drink. While such gossamer characteristics increase the subtlety and elegance of a wine, they can limit the food matching possibilities. I would choose this (and the other Long Island viogniers) to go with egg or fruit dishes at a brunch, which is the way I tested it. You might also consider sipping it as an aperitif.
I found this wine tasted best when somewhat chilled but not extremely cold. Also, I’d be cautious about pairing it with strong flavors or very cold or very hot foods. I did not directly compare this local wine to the more classic viogniers, but my memories as well as my research indicate that the wine can certainly be less delicate and more assertive, with powerful aromatics and a full body. Part of it, I would guess, has to do with the age of the vines. Beyond the grapes themselves, viognier in the hands of different winemakers can produce a wide range of results.
Maybe that is why it has developed such a loyal and vocal group of drinkers. Listening to and reading their comments made me realize that it is hard to generalize about this wine. But discoveries like this are part of the fun you will find in testing wine.
