It’s been a summer of whites and rosés and sparkling wines in the Hamptons, with the occasional red matched with dinner or just when we need a change of pace. But a couple of recent cool nights remind me that in just a few weeks red wine will be back on our menus and back in our lives much more often.
I love cabernet franc—both for its wonderful soft palate and its role as a transition to the heavier cabernet sauvignons we drink in winter. Cab franc is a wine to simply enjoy. Drink it young. And on the cool side, though not really chilled. The effect is somewhat leafy, herbal and vegetative, fruitier than a cabernet sauvignon, but lighter in color, tannins and alcohol. The silky qualities and high but balanced acid allows it to pair extremely well with differing menus in all our Hamptons seasons.
Cabernet franc often has a spicy quality, and may present aromas of raspberries, plums, violets, mint, fresh tobacco or quite characteristically bell pepper. Also, think of the scent of a freshly sharpened pencil, and look for this zesty sensation in the nose.
The recently released cabernet franc from Bedell Cellars is an excellent example of this varietal that does quite well on Long Island. It has the right note of spiciness along with the aroma of red fruits, plus harmonious flavor and a toasty tender charm. Bedell’s 2008 Cabernet Franc runs $30 per bottle at the winery.