Here are my very strict rules for choosing and drinking rosé wine:
1. Color is part of the experience of drinking a rosé, so by all means choose a color that pleases—one that will be attractive on a table on your porch or poolside, or go well with your bathing suit.
2. Delete from your memory everything you learned about rosé back in the twentieth century, if you are old enough to remember. Rosé is as up to date as your iphone 4.
3. Don’t be overly discerning. The quality of rosé wines is now excellent for the most part, and American consumers have wisely and enthusiastically made them a part of summer living. Not only are they to be seen everywhere in the Hamptons, but our choices include a number of locally made rosés.
4. Have some fun with it. There are some serious rosés—but anyone who rattles on too long about depth or complexity in a rosé ought to have his glass impounded until he lightens up. Rosé is a wine that should be joyous and buoyant and exhilarating.
5. Have a few bottles cooling at all times, without exception, from Memorial Day to Labor Day. Keep the bottles chilled but not to cryogenic levels. I like it cold enough to be refreshing to the palate, but never so cold that it masks or distorts the delicious fruit flavors.
6. This is the only time to get caught up in the youth culture. Drink your rosé while it is young. The sassy, sprightly qualities fade after a year or two, and not even a shot of botox will revive its youth. Rosé should always have a fresh fruit and floral profile in its aroma and taste.
At my table I avoid May December marriages between wine and food so I pair rosés that are young, fresh, bright and have clear tastes with vegetable hors d’ oeuvres or main courses made with the local produce coming in from the nearby fields—crisp radishes and lettuces, eggplant, zucchini, young spinach, baby carrots, and for a snack with our delicious peaches and melons.