With a maritime climate similar to the Loire Valley, the North Fork of Long Island has in recent years evolved into an important winemaking area. But wine is not the only hedonistic pleasure waiting for visitors. Like Napa a generation ago, the wine trade here has spawned a food and lifestyle culture—people who like wine also like food—making the beautiful and mostly unspoiled roads and villages of the North Fork an alluring getaway destination.
We started from Riverhead, the county center where Long Island separates into the north and south forks, and where a leisurely drive east will take you along the wine and food trail. Or you can take cross from Shelter Island to Greenport on the ferry and go in the opposite direction. In either case, you can get to the wineries, to some prominent restaurants, and to many charming small spots that emphasize locally sourced ingredients, where the owner is hands-on in the kitchen, at the counter or within shouting distance, and where the help is friendly and knowledgeable.
Aquebogue, so small you might drive through without noticing has been home to the Modern Snack Bar (Route 25) since 1950. With its mid-century roadhouse design it might serve as an old folks commissary for the tidy little trailer park hidden away behind it. But people of all ages who know their menus head here for the lobster salad or soft shell crab.
The serious foodie trail begins a few miles further east in Jamesport. Grana (1556 Main Road), is a storefront delight in the tiny village, with delectable pizza: medium size, thin crisp crust and enticingly inventive toppings such as braised pork belly and fontina. All the bottles on the small list are local and uniformly priced at $30. David Plath tends the wood-burning oven, while wife Nancy takes care of the front of the house, which in this case is just a few feet away.
Jamesport Vineyards (1216 Main Road), operated by three generations of the Goerler family, is one of the older wineries in the region and has 40 of its 60 acres farm planted with vines. The scallop shell on the East End Series labels reflects their involvement with a local initiative to encourage the raising of shellfish. And just right for fish or shellfish is the Jamesport 2009 East End Cinq Blanc, a bright, balanced blend of white grapes. Or for a rich red, their 2007 Jubilant Reserve, a cabernet franc based blend, is beguiling and full-bodied.
Moving east, the picturesque village of Mattituck should be on every food lover’s list. Go straight to Love Lane, a little street off Main Road with a colossal gourmet force field. You can easily spend a day or week there. Love Lane Kitchen is a simple, pretty place with a knockout menu for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Burgers are made with McCall’s organic grass-fed beef from cattle raised a few miles away, greens are from Satur Farms, also nearby, and pasta is restaurant made.
Next door, under the same ownership, is the Love Lane Market, an extraordinary gourmet market with what seems like the best of everything. But even if you aren’t cooking, their prepared foods—rotisserie local duck, or various pizzas from the wood burning oven—are perfect for a picnic. They don’t carry many cheeses for the good reason that almost across the street is one of the best selections of artisinal cheeses you might hope to find. The Village Cheese Shop, beside their splendid cheese counter, has a small restaurant. In case you’re still hungry slip into the Love Lane Sweet Shoppe for chocolates and candy.
If it’s time for sipping, just stay in Mattituck. Macari Vineyards (150 Bergen Road) is known for its natural approach to viticulture and winemaking on their 180 acres of grapevines. And it shows in wines like Sette, a merlot and cabernet franc blend with enticing aromas of green olives and spice and flavors evocative of Italian plums. We like our North Fork whites rich and refreshing, and the Macari 2010 Sauvignon Blanc comes through with a bouquet of passion fruit and grapefruit and long wonderful finish.
Shinn Estate Vineyards (2000 Oregon Road, Mattituck) has 20 impeccably tended acres and produces small quantities of elegant, refined wines. Their 2010 First Fruit Sauvignon Blanc beckons with ripe pear, mineral and herbal overtones, and the 2008 Estate Merlot presents gentle tannins and red plum flavors. Some people never want to leave the Shinn Estate and that’s O.K. They also offer lodging at the property.
Long Island winemaking began in Cutchogue, next on our easterly route. Bedell Cellars (36225 Main Road, Cutchogue), among the oldest, continues to be one of Long Island’s leading wineries and most popular tasting rooms, now known not just for the quality of the wines but also for the series of labels designed by prominent American artists. (Owner and movie executive Michael Lynne is an important collector of contemporary art.) The Taste label is based on art by Barbara Kroger and is fascinating both to look at and to drink. Try the 2008 Taste White, a brisk and lively blend, or 2009 Taste Red, delectable and juicy.
Long Island pinot noir? Even for skeptics, the answer is finally an emphatic yes. So be sure stop at McCall Wines (22600 Main Road, Cutchogue) as you head east. They have a 2009 pinot noir that even doubters will relish. Light, with a silky texture, this is a solid American version of a small estate Bourgogne Rouge. Still in the French style, this time more like a Saint Emilion, is their 2007 Ben’s Blend.
If you’re not catching stripers or digging clams yourself, the freshest fish and shellfish can be found at Braun Seafood Company (30840 Main Road) in Cutchogue. Primarily a wholesaler and a retailer, they also have a kitchen with a small take-out shop and a few tables where you can order from a menu or just select something on ice in the retail store and ask them to cook it. Some of our favorites: pan seared tuna with sesame and soy ginger glaze, beer battered codfish, Manhattan clam chowder. The place is fresh and fun with plenty of local color.
Another North Fork seafood mainstay is A Lure Chowder House & Oysteria in Southold where noted Long Island chef Tom Schaudel prepares chili-dusted yellow fin tuna, pan seared diver scallops and macadamia-coconut crusted fluke. A “lobster purist,” he adamantly will not prepare lobster any way other than steamed with lemon and butter.
As you continue the west to east route, driving by farms and fields in an area rich in local foods, the most unusual lunch place is the North Fork Table & Inn Lunch Truck (57225 Main Road, Southold). In the parking lot of this very ambitious and well-regarded restaurant, the truck sells lunch from a small menu that includes Berkshire pulled pork roll, organic spicy chicken posole, sliced strip loin sandwich, and lobster roll. A grouping of Adirondack chairs on the lawn seems the right place to consume this food.
If you want to upgrade from a garden chair to a booth, get yourself to Bonnie Jean’s (55765 Main Road) in Southold. It has the look and the menu of middle America, and serves comfort food exactly the way it should be: delicious and wholesome with no pretense. Owner Jennilee Morris serves perfect meatloaf, chicken potpie, and liver and onions. For less comfort and more kick, she is expanding to a neighboring building with Long Island Coffee Roasters.
At the other end of the spectrum from comfort food, Southold offers the visitor some superb methode champenoise. Sparkling Pointe (39750 County Road 48) produces nothing but bubbles, that is to say, nothing but gratification. Their Topaz Imperial is a blend of pinot noir and chardonnay, shimmering and spirited, with notes of fresh sour red cherry. Or for another bon vivant treat have a flute of their 2007 Brut.
Greenport, once a prosperous whaling and ship building village, has come out of its long stupor with a revived downtown with a distinct food focus. Aldo’s (105 Front Street) with its own coffee roaster and terrific biscotti recipe has been everyone’s favorite café for years. Greenport Tea Company (119 Main Street) is a quaint looking shop but hardly old ladyish. The selection of teas is well thought out and the ambience just right.
After strolling around Greenport, you might take a break at Salamander’s (414 First Street), a pocket-sized take-out and specialized grocery with a few tables on the front deck. Interesting original soups and classic fried chicken and among the reasons regulars keep returning here.
Chef Noah Schwartz took a plain Front Street storefront and converted it into Noah’s (136 Front Street), a sleek, stylish restaurant and bar that is one of the success stories of the North Fork—and for good reason. Who wouldn’t want to start dinner with a filet mignon slider with truffle béarnaise sauce or a terrific raw bar selection, and go on to a warm lobster roll or local seafood bouillabaisse? The wine list is well balanced between North Fork and international wines, and the sophisticated cocktail list is a winner and all too tempting. Appoint a designated driver and work your way through it.
Plain or fancy, still or sparkling, white tablecloth or wood picnic table, how do you top off a North Fork getaway? You’re never too old to get on the beautifully restored Front Street carousel in Greenport and reach for the gold ring.
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If you’re staying for a night or two Greenport is a good choice. A bit larger than the other North Fork villages and the only seaside town, it gives you streets to stroll and explore and a waterfront to enjoy.
The Harborfront Inn (209 Front Street) is a boutique hotel with 35 guest rooms and suites, most with balconies and many with views of Peconic Bay, Greenport Harbor and Shelter Island. Room furnishings are contemporary in comforting earth tones. A stylish lobby bar looks out on Front Street.
A five-minute walk from the center of the village, the Bartlett House Inn B&B (503 Front Street) is a meticulously restored Shingle Style mansion with ten guest rooms. Originally built in 1908, it now offers luxury and comfort with a lot of history in the traditionally decorated rooms and public spaces.