A deep dive into four versions of gruner veltliner produced by Tegernseerhof on the banks of the Danube. The Creation label is an enchanting wine, layered with depth and power.

Austria: Tegernseerhof

Tegernseerhof is not the easiest name for English speakers to pronounce. But it is well worth the effort. The winery has made it a bit simpler this year with new labels featuring a large “T” in a bold serif typeface.

Tegernseerhof is located in a dramatically beautiful area of terraced hillsides along the Danube in the Wachau, a bit west of Vienna. Stone walls retain the heat of the sun and provide an ideal environment for grapes to properly mature, even if they make harvesting a more difficult job. The region is best known for the gruner veltliner grape, another Austrian name that you ought to remember because it makes one of the loveliest white wines to be found anywhere.

I sampled six wines from Tegernseerhof last week when Martin Mittelbach, a ninth generation winemaker, was visiting East Hampton to promote his wines to wine store and restaurant buyers. Austrian whites in general, and certainly the output of Tegernseerhof, reflect a welcome move away from neutral, bland or overoaked wines to refreshing whites with distinctive character.

I began with a rosé made from zweigelt, a red grape indigenous to Austria. As with any rosé, color, temperature and price count more than serious analysis. This one is a cheerful pink color that looked gorgeous sitting on a table in the sunshine with trees and grass in the background. It is best chilled but not icy, to bring out the fresh strawberry and rose petal aromas. The bright fruit profile is nicely balanced with crisp mineral notes for a very satisfying taste. The 2006 vintage, from a good harvest in Austria, costs about $12.50 a bottle, making it affordable for everyday summer drinking.

Tegernseerhof produces a dry riesling labeled Terrassen 2004. Peach, green apple and white pepper are the dominant scents in this light, graceful wine. It is perfect for summer meals, with fresh vegetables, fish or chicken, or maybe just with a quart of Wainscott strawberries. It sells for about $21.75.

Four different gruner veltliner whites from Tegernseerhof are distributed here on the East End, and they amply demonstrate the sprightly and lively qualities of this grape. Young gruner veltliner is generally a bright, fresh wine with citrus tones and peppery notes, and strong mineral underpinnings. For casual drinking, try the “T 26.” It is gently priced at $13.50, a bargain for a wine of this quality. It has a charming balance of fruit and floral flavors, so you can use it for sipping or with meals. The Bergdistal 2004 ($22) and the Hohereck 2004 ($34) are variations on the gruner veltliner theme. They are intense and powerful but so finely made that the scents and tastes seem perfectly organized. You can tell you are drinking a serious white wine.

Each time over the past few years that I have tasted Tegernseerhof’s Creation, I have fallen under its spell. Tegernseerhof does with gruner veltliner what the great Burgundy producers do with chardonnay: they coax an almost unimaginable complexity from the grape. Creation 2004 is made in small quantities with grapes from vines that are 40 to 60 years old. It is an enchanting wine, brisk, vibrant, with a soft, almost creamy feel, layered with depth and power. I am a frugal purchaser when it comes to wine, but I would not object to spending $36 for Creation. For me it is as good as a white wine gets to be.

Tegernseerhof wines are available in several East End wine stores, including Domaine in East Hampton, and they will be appearing on some restaurant wine lists this summer.