A survey of (mostly) Long Island white wines to keep your summer drinking diverse and delectable
Summertime and the Wine is White
It’s white wine time—if not all over the world then at least in the northern hemisphere, where the countdown to summer is on. And in case you need a reminder, in most democracies we have a constitutional right to choose wines other than chardonnay. I think chardonnay is as good an all-purpose white as you can find, and there is certainly justification for why it is the world’s most popular white wine grape. But it is not the only one. So why not choose from a selection of wonderfully varied white wines for different meals or times or settings?
Besides, I don’t think there is one chardonnay. Depending on the location and climate and, most of all, the cellar techniques, this grape can result in quite a range of tastes. They can sweep from very dry and stony with mineral notes to rich, buttery and oaked. So even within the chardonnay spectrum you still have to use some discretion and select what is appropriate for the occasion.
There are good examples from all over the world, but for summer drinking I like to often keep the choices close to home. Peconic Bay, in Cutchogue, produces a steel fermented chardonnay that has become one of my standbys. Bright citrus tinged acidity and a perfect fruit and mineral balance make this an elegant and satisfying choice. At Wolffer Estate here in Sagaponack, Roman Roth makes several superb chardonnays in different price ranges. Channing Daughters, in Bridgehampton, produces excellent chardonnays along with its more unusual whites.
Sauvignon blanc also varies and I try to avoid the heavier ones. The best for me have a characteristic, penetrating scent of grass or mown hay and crisp green fruits. Flexible, food-friendly, and highly refreshing, they are always drunk young. It almost shouts summer to me. I’d generally choose France, New Zealand, or Long Island over California or Australia for this varietal. Raphael, in Peconic, and Jamesport Vineyards, in Cutchogue, both make small quantities of high quality sauvignon blanc. Osprey’s Dominion makes a distinctive fume blanc from the same grape.
The aromatic, racy qualities of riesling deserve more consideration. This grape can be the basis for so many different styles of wine, so investigate. Look for those displaying mineral notes along with suggestions of flowers, lime and honey for summer drinking. Most important perhaps with riesling is the correct balance of fruit extract and acidity, which is why it can be flowery and tart at the same time. Paumanok, in Aquebogue, makes both a dry and semi-dry in a classic manner. Peconic Bay also has a subtle, refined riesling, and Gallucio has just released an engaging off-dry riesling called Avalon.
Gruner veltliner, a popular Austrian white wine, seems to be heading toward acceptance here. It made some inroads in the United States last year and a with focused marketing campaign this summer we will be seeing lots more of it in the Hamptons. Although the grape is not grown locally, at least not yet, a number of East End restaurants and wine stores are stocking the imports—with good reason. Fresh, peppery and distinctive, with pleasant layers of taste, these wines have enough fruit and flower qualities to drink alone and enough power and depth to pair with food. I’m planning to make it one of my house wines this summer.
Gewürztraminer, unlike gruner veltliners and despite its difficult Germanic name, is grown in this country by some vintners, including several on the North Fork. “Gewurz” translates as spicy, and the wine usually has a spicy fragrance, floral perfumes and a full body. That might sound overwhelming but when all the elements are balanced it can be delicious. Locally, try Palmer Vineyards or the brand new and very well made 2002 gewürztraminer from Corey Creek.
Viognier, exotic, elusive and haunting, has unique floral qualities that are tempting winemakers on Long Island to grow this Rhone native. Heady and full-bodied, it can be quite a treat but also quite a challenge to the winemaker. Martha Clara and Bedell, both on the North Fork, produce fine viogniers, if not quite yet in the classic European mold. They are sold out now but watch for the new vintages.
Pinot blanc is known for rich, forward, fresh fruit extract, and is quite food friendly. It is lively and sometimes resembles chardonnay. Lieb Family Cellars, in Mattituck, and Castello de Borghese, in Cutchogue, are offering faithful versions of this wine. Those are some of my recommendations to inaugurate the season. Give yourself some latitude, keep your whites nicely chilled but not overly so, and relax and savor the moment.
