Prognosticating over the barrels: prior to release, samples of the harvest and tastes of what’s to come at three Long Island vineyards.

Long Island Barrel Tastings: Paumanak Vineyards, Laurel Lake Vineyards, Channing Daughters

I visited Paumanok Vineyards last week to see what was new—and there was indeed a lot to discover. Charles Massoud, the proprietor, who with his family grows the grapes and makes the wine and runs the business, took me through the cellar to barrel taste the entire 2004 vintage.

Though I try to avoid technical matters in my writing—I am a consumer and my reports are intended for consumers—local vineyard news as well as certain aspects of the winemaking process can be interesting for all of us. I’m also keeping an eye out for appealing holiday gifts from the wineries.

This year, for the first time, Paumanok has harvested petit verdot grapes. In Bordeaux, particularly the Medoc region, petit verdot is sometimes used in blends along with merlot, cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc. I should have said, “was used” since we see less of it, mostly because the grape has such a long growing season and sometimes does not ripen at all.

In warmer climates it produces a dark, structured, rather tannic and often delicious wine. In climates such as Bordeaux and Long Island, it produces purplish, full-bodied, tangy wines high in tannins and alcohol that in small quantities contribute excellent features to a blend. For the sake of quality, a number of chateaus in Bordeaux are reviving its use.

It’s too early to say if petit verdot will make an impact on the North Fork, but Paumanok should be able to produce some interesting and complex blends from this vintage. Even in the barrel the strength and spirit of the grape was apparent. Paumanok keeps producing prize-winning wines, and this new grape ought to add to their medals. Because of a hailstorm last year and other conditions this year, the overall quantity at Paumanok is down—but with fewer clusters on the vines, the quality is up. We’ll have to wait a few years to taste the final results on the red wines, but most of the 2004 whites are now being bottled. We usually think of fresh and sprightly whites for summer drinking, but I find there are times in winter when nothing else will do, especially as an aperitif. A mixed case of Paumanok whites should be very handy to have in the house, and would make a fine holiday gift.

Laurel Lake Vineyards, a mile or so east of Paumanok, has been steadily producing supple, elegant, moderately priced wines under the direction of Claudio Zamorano, their talented young winemaker who trained at Veramonte, one of Chile’s notable wineries.

He has been making some excellent chardonnays, and the 2003 Estate Bottled chardonnay ($11) is no exception. It’s buoyant and has just the right traces of toasty oak. The other new release, a 2002 syrah ($20), coaxes out all the distinctive, zesty, fruity qualities of this grape. It’s a really nice choice when you want a red wine lighter and zippier than a cabernet sauvignon, less expensive than a pinot noir, but rich enough for winter dishes like roast chicken or duck, or pork or veal chops. Osso buco is another good match.

I also did a bit of barrel tasting at Channing Daughters. L’Enfant Sauvage, their premium chardonnay is slowly fermented with natural yeast and is minimally handled. The 2003 vintage, now nearing maturity in the barrel, was an absolute knockout—evolved, textured and intense. Tocai is an Italian grape that winemaker Christopher Tracy has made a specialty. The 2004 vintage, also still in the barrel, was alive with red grapefruit aromas, expressive and vivid, and deeply satisfying on the palate.

The wines at Channing Daughters are produced in small quantities and sell out quickly. Wine Club members automatically get 12 wines a year plus preference and discounts on others, as well as invitations to special events. This is one wine club that really makes sense, especially for South Fork residents. A membership could make a terrific holiday gift that lasts through the year as your recipient receives each new shipment. And if you give it to someone close to you, you’ll get to sip and enjoy as well.