Zooming in on merlot: a serious effort by a skilled winemaker results in a big, juicy, sensuous wine. Ah, so nice to drink.
Long Island: Wolffer Merlot
I was sitting on the terrace of Wolffer Estate looking out at rows of grapevines that approach geometrical perfection. The wood and wire trellises stretched far into the distance in perfectly straight lines that were long and elegant. The thick canopy of grape leaves was trimmed into nearly ninety-degree corners at the top, and clusters of maturing grapes dangled from the lower branches. The vineyard had been shaped for efficiency, but its byproduct was beauty. At least for me at that moment, function had been trumped by the beguiling architectural rhythm of the landscape.
I had come to Wolffer Estate to meet with Roman Roth, one of the most accomplished winemakers on Long Island, and catch up on the late summer news. In spite of the vagaries of this year’s weather, the condition of the vines was good, and though Mr. Roth made no hard predictions, he seemed optimistic as we move toward the 2003 harvest season.
Depending on weather, the quality of the grapes changes from year to year, this, along with the skills of the winemaker, determines the quality of the wine to follow. We as consumers must wait until a particular vintage reaches our tables to judge its merits. That is why I am always curious to get the news about new releases. In the next month or so, Wolffer Estate plans to release a 2001 Reserve merlot, priced at $22 at the winery, and a 2001 Reserve chardonnay, priced at $20. I have found their Reserve wines to be consistently rich, with fulfilling, varietal tastes that seem to have some sense of the South Fork, and to be food friendly and always enjoyable to drink.
For this column, I decided to focus my attention on another new release, the 2000 Estate Selection merlot, priced at $35. I knew this was a serious effort by a serious winemaker. The result is a big, juicy, sensuous, and concentrated wine, yet one that is subtly made, nuanced, and with a great deal of charm. The fruit does not jump out, but rather forms a refined inner core—a quality not every winemaker can achieve.
The color is a medium to dark ruby, and the nose reveals scents of ripe plum and black cherry with hints of raspberry. There is good definition as you drink. In your mouth it is soft, smooth, and ripe, with rounded, restrained tannic qualities and layered tastes. The wine affords a long, pleasant finish. The satisfying balance of fruit and acidity make it a good partner with food. This is one of the most appealing Long Island merlots I’ve had. But I should not limit that to Long Island. This wine can qualify on any standard.
Perhaps it is not yet as important in the world of wine connoisseurs as those occasional California merlots that can be so dazzling and opulent and lush. But in the real world of consumers, those of us looking for a good wine for dinner, this merlot is a terrific choice. At $35 it is a bit expensive for everyday use but not over the top. Since it is a wine that gives you value for the price, I would recommend it for coming fall dinners. It ought to be a hit accompanying duck or game and the earthy root vegetables harvested locally in September and October.
The 2000 Wolffer Estate Selection merlot displays the kind of finesse and harmony I find appealing. There is a not a false or hollow note in the taste. The balance is excellent. The wine is accessible, good for drinking now—with those fall and winter menus—and should drink well for a number of years.
