How Nigella Lawson inspired me to greater things, or at least provoked some thoughtful wine pairings

Nigella Cooks, I Pour

I’ve become a fan of Nigella Lawson. I like her easy, conversational writing style, and I like her knowledgeable and hands-on, yet discerning approach to cooking. The key word here is approach. For me, it is not so much what she is preparing that counts (it’s invariably interesting and always good), but the fluent and relaxed manner in which it all comes together.

In her New York Times column last week Ms. Lawson made a distinction between two types of cooking: guestless dinners for one or two, where you need not plan or even think too much, and dinners for friends. Even if the food might be informal and the cooking low-stress, some advance planning is needed to minimize last minute work so you, the cook, enjoy the evening also.

I always have wine parallels in mind and it occurred to me while reading that there are also different approaches to choosing wines to accompany these different types of dinners. Not that the quality of your wine should change. It should always be high quality, no matter what the cost or the accompanying menu. But your wine selection and expectations might change with the kind of evening.

When I select a wine for a homey weeknight dinner I look for honesty, simplicity and flavor rather than complexity. Something satisfying, not electrifying. Like Ms. Lawson’s more casual dinners, not too much planning or thought is necessary. When the dinner is more ambitious, additional foresight is required. I look for a wine that is more nuanced, that suggests in its aroma and taste that (like the food on the table) more has gone into it, and there is something more complex going on as you enjoy it.

One of things I like about Ms. Lawson is that good sense seems to trump hard and fast rules in her cooking. In my opinion, that is equally true in wine choices. It’s really all about what you like. At the same time it should not be entirely random or even vaguely haphazard.

Some guidelines are obvious: you want always to keep a balance between the intensity of the wine and food. They should be companionable, and one should never overwhelm the other. This is not to say that you can’t pair an extraordinary wine with a simple meal, say some grilled meat or fish, or a cheese course, and let the wine be the star of the evening—as long as the tastes complement one another. Price is not the point. It should be all about taste and relatedness.

At this time of year, I tend toward medium and full-bodied red wines to accompany winter’s richer, heartier dishes. Locally, the 2000 merlots from Wolffer Estate ($13.50), Pindar ($13), and Galluccio Family Wineries ($11), are all reliable choices.

For a reasonably priced French wine, be selective. Rather than an indeterminate Bordeaux label, look for less famous regions. Languedoc, for example, a vast vineyard area once known for cheap, generic boxes of wine, now produces many good varietals at decent prices. The locales of Minervois, Corbières and Côtes de Roussillon offer some lovely reds.

Take a look at imports from South Africa. Among the current selections I like at Sherry-Lehmann are the dependable Excelsior cabernet sauvignon ($8), Goat Roti red ($17) and Mulderbosch ($21).

I’ve found some excellent Spanish wines under $20 at Amagansett Wine & Spirits and at Franey Wine & Sprits, and a good selection of Italian wines at Wines By Morrell—all with the body and taste I want for chilly weather dinners.

Although I have Ms. Lawson’s simple, guestless dinner in mind, I would not hesitate to serve any of these wines at a dinner party. Depending on the group, I might go up a bit in price to the $25 range and look for the enveloping, dense, silky tastes that invite you to linger at the table or by the fireplace on a cold winter evening.

Ask about other ripe, mellow reds at your wine store. Describe your menu and see what they suggest. Or have some fun and put them on the spot. Tell them you want a $15 wine that tastes like a $30 wine, and see what they come up with. They’ll enjoy the challenge and you may get some first-rate results.